Pumpkin velouté with coffee cream

• 1 potimarron (red kuri squash), about 650g, or another cooking pumpkin or squash
• 1 litre water, vegetable stock or chicken stock
• 1 onion
• 2 garlic cloves, divided between the soup and croutons
• 400ml cold whipping cream, divided between the soup and topping
• 200g cold butter, cubed, adjusting to taste
• 50ml brewed coffee, completely cold; add to taste
• 3-4 tablespoons olive oil for the soup, plus extra for the croutons
• Stale bread, cut into bite-sized cubes
• Salt and pepper
• A pinch of Espelette pepper
• Chives, finely sliced, to serve

Velouté

1. Wash the squash, halve it and scoop out the seeds. Cut into chunks. Potimarron has thin skin that can stay on; peel squash with a tough rind.
2. Peel and roughly slice the onion. Crush and chop one garlic clove, reserving the other for the croutons.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, garlic and squash and cook briefly, stirring, without browning.
4. Add the water or stock, bring to a simmer and cook until the squash is completely tender when pierced with a knife.
5. Lift the vegetables out with a slotted spoon, keeping the cooking liquid. Blend the vegetables, adding liquid gradually until smooth. An immersion blender in a suitable deep container also works.
6. Reserve roughly half the cream for the topping. Blend the remaining cream into the soup, followed by the cold butter a few cubes at a time. Adjust the cream, butter and cooking liquid to get a rich, smooth soup that coats a spoon. You may not need all the liquid or butter.
7. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Keep any remaining cooking liquid to loosen the soup when reheating.

Garlic croutons

1. Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan. Add the bread cubes and toss immediately to distribute the oil.
2. Cook until crisp and golden on all sides, tossing frequently and adjusting the heat so they do not burn.
3. Finely chop the remaining garlic clove and add near the end of cooking. Toss briefly, then drain the croutons on kitchen paper.

Coffee cream

1. Chill a mixing bowl, then lightly whip the reserved cold cream to soft peaks. Keep it loose enough to spread into the soup.
2. Season with salt and Espelette pepper. Gently mix in the cold coffee a tablespoon at a time, tasting as you go. Stop when the flavour is subtle; you may not need all 50ml. Warm coffee would deflate the cream.
3. Keep refrigerated until serving.

Serving

1. Heat the soup gently, whisking regularly so it warms evenly without catching on the bottom. Add a little reserved cooking liquid if needed.
2. Ladle into bowls or a serving tureen. Gently stir the coffee cream if it has settled, then spoon it over the hot soup.
3. Finish with chives and add the croutons just before serving so they stay crisp.